The journey engaged

MCLEAN, IL — And so today it begins.

I didn’t exactly sleep in this morning what with 7 hours on the night, but it was rejuvenating sleep nonetheless. The weather had also turned cooperative with a brisk mix of sun and wind-blown clouds. Today I awoke ready to go.

I was up early enough to fit in a quick stroll along N. Michigan Avenue, where some fantastic architecture resides. Along the way I spied the entrance for the headquarters of NBC Chicago:

Like the other major television networks, NBC has had its share of problems in recent years, but their logo remains impressive, particularly set against a splashy art deco background.

Walking the final blocks to N. Michigan Avenue, I enjoyed watching my favorite building in the city come more fully into view.

The Chicago Tribune Building, completed in 1925. Here it is looking all Gothic:

Beyond the Trib building is still more architectural splendor. Chicago is easily one of the country’s most beautiful cities, which helps take the sting out of a pricey stay here.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover this prominently displayed bust of the late Cubs announcer Jack Brickhouse thrown into the mix (yeah, the girl was cute too):

I didn’t have time to hang around though. One old and legendary highway was waiting.

Back at the hotel I loaded up the Mini and then returned to ask the concierge for some directions. An affable man, he inquired where I was headed. When I told him my plans he remarked that the resurgent popularity of the Mother Road, particularly among visiting Europeans, was spurring a new revival of cafes and other services along the route. Earlier that year 18 German guests at the hotel left for a motorcycle ride along Route 66 on machines they had shipped over from their country.

Directions in mind, I set out for downtown Chicago and Lou Mitchell’s Restaurant, the traditional place to go for the pre-drive meal.

Opened in 1923, Lou Mitchell’s predates the official creation of Route 66 by 3 years. I was greeted at the front door by a waiter bearing a platter filled with freshly baked puff pastries. They also serve a rich and fluffy ham-and-cheese omelette, served on a silver skillet with fried potato wedges and onions. I had mine delivered with ageless gusto by Cubs fan and 22-year Mitchell’s waitress Donna Fenton, 81, here posing with diner Paula Woodley:

Then it was back to the Mini, fire up the engine, one last Tweet(s), and onward heading southwest along Adams, the slowed-down, full-bellied beginning of my Route 66 experience.

Blocks of downtown blight along Chicago’s outer edge soon give way to sights that haven’t changed much with time. Here and there you also spot relics, like this gas station, that have been restored with a perfectionist’s attention to small details.

Soon enough the kitsch shows up as well.

Along with stunning beauty from another time. Here’s the Rialto Square Theatre in Joliet:

And a detail shot:

Other, unphotographed impressions come to mind: the steady kapock-kapock of tires on the seams of vintage Route 66 concrete, open land fading into big blue-and-white skies, the speedometer at 50 but nonetheless a momentary buzz by a Braidwood cruiser (I guess the cop read troublemaker in my chrome hood scoop), smells of grain, grass and manure on cool fall winds, and the relaxed excitement of the journey engaged.